Quick Guide
Quick answer:
Start around 220 grit when you need to level filler, seams, or obvious print texture. Move through finer grits only after the scratches from the previous grit are gone. Primer tells you where more work is actually needed.
My five-step workflow:
- Level major seams and filler with the lowest grit needed
- Move through progressively finer sandpaper instead of making big jumps
- Use the compact powered tool only in tight curves where hand sanding is awkward
- Fill tiny pinholes with a small amount of clear UV resin and cure it completely
- Apply primer, inspect under side lighting, and correct only the problem areas
Where each tool helps:
- The 220-3000 grit assortment covers shaping, refinement, and wet sanding between compatible coats
- The compact foot grinder is my off-label detail-sanding workaround; I use a light touch and keep it away from sharp edges
- Clear UV resin is useful for tiny defects where a heavy filler would create more sanding
- The UV light cures those small resin repairs before I sand them flush
When to stop:
Do not chase a perfect-looking bare print forever. Once the major defects are level, apply primer. It creates one consistent surface so scratches and low spots are easier to see. Spot-correct those areas instead of restarting the entire helmet.
Safety:
Control sanding dust and follow the resin manufacturer's handling, ventilation, eye-protection, skin-contact, and curing instructions.
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Gear I Use
These recommendations come from my own workshop process. I explain where each item fits, including the tradeoffs, so you can decide whether it suits your build.
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Best for: Progressive dry and wet sanding from seam levelling through finish refinement
I use the lower grits to shape filler and remove print texture, then work upward so each stage removes the scratches from the one before it.
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Best for: Small curves and tight printed details where hand sanding is awkward
This is my personal off-label workshop workaround. It removes material quickly, so I use a light touch and keep it away from edges I need to preserve.
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Best for: Pinholes, tiny seam defects, and localized surface corrections
A small cured drop can be sanded flush without spreading heavy filler across a wider area. I follow the manufacturer's handling and curing instructions.
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Best for: Fully curing small clear-resin surface repairs before sanding
I use this with the clear UV resin for controlled repairs, curing each application completely before sanding it into the surrounding surface.
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Keep Exploring
Want to see more of the build process? Visit the workshop page for behind-the-scenes progress, or browse the finished prop catalog to see what is available now and what can be made to order.